In the wake of the Euro 2012 football tournament, the world saw the true face of Poland – welcoming, charming and exciting.
Poland’s long, fascinating and turbulent history is visible everywhere, whether you’re walking past ugly Soviet-era apartment blocks in Łódź or drinking coffee under the midday sun Krakowhistorian of Rynek Główny.
One place above all embodies the spirit of Poland. That place is called Gdynia and is located on the northern coast of the country.
Things to do in Gdynia
For one thing, it’s a unique mix of modern concrete and steel, lacking in historic charm. On the other hand, its home to some of Poland’s most spectacular coastal scenery. Uncover beneath the city’s modernity however, and you will uncover some of the most important events in Polish, and indeed world history.
Gdynia is located in a metropolitan area known as ‘Trójmiasto’ in Polish and ‘Tricity’ in English, together with Gdańsk and Sopot. The three cities are only miles apart and travel between them is quick and effortless.
Medieval Old Town
Gdańsk it is known worldwide for its beautiful old town and medieval buildings, while Sopot is famous for having the longest pier in Europe and the wonderfully disturbing ‘Crooked House’. Of the three, Gdynia is sometimes overlooked, but there is something to discover around every corner in this beautiful city.
One of the first things you’ll notice in Gdynia is a distinct lack of historic buildings. There are two reasons for this – Gdynia itself remained a village until the 1920s when the Polish government started building a deep water port, so grandiose buildings were never a priority.
Second, immense destruction during the war resulted in the disappearance of the few historic buildings that were there. The city was rebuilt from the rubble of the Second World War in a distinctly Soviet manner.
While the streets are wide and straight and the buildings are shabby and gray, the friendly locals fill the place with a vibrant sense of warmth. If you are lost in Gdynia, do not hesitate to approach someone on the street and ask for directions. Many younger Poles will be keen to practice their English skills.
If you’re lucky, you might be invited to one of Gdynia’s cozy pubs for a pint of Żywiec, a delicious Polish lager. Amongst all the modernity, you can still see some historical buildings like St. The Church of the Archangel Michael in Oksywie, a charismatic old structure with red roof tiles and a wooden bell tower.
Tour Gdynia
Getting around from Gdynia is very easy. A fleet of white and blue electric trolleybuses and conventional buses serve the city, with a 24-hour ticket costing 10 ZL or €2.40. Gdynia is one of only two cities in Poland with a trolleybus network, the other being Tychy. If you wish to travel to Sopot or Gdańskhop on the Szybka Kolej Miejska or SKM, a fast and cheap commuter train.
Attractions in Gdynia
Most of the main attractions of Gdynia can be found on the sea, so make it the heart of your trip. The port really breathes history and there are a number of museums that put all the pieces together.
The port of Gdynia
It was here in December 1970 that dozens of striking shipyard workers were killed by the army, which had a profound impact on workers across Poland and eventually resulted in the emergence of the Solidarity movement. Memorials to the massacred workers in Gdynia, Gdańsk and Elbląg.
Two impressive museum ships are located in the port of Gdynia – il House of Pomorzasailing frigate dating from 1909 and ORP Błyskawica, the oldest preserved destroyer in the world. The tall white sails of the House of Pomorza they are very impressive and worth visiting.
The ship was operated by Great Britain and France before sailing around the world in 1935. It served Poland for several decades, and was decommissioned in 1982. ORP Błyskawica it had a much more violent and glorious existence on the other hand, fighting during the Second World War. In the process, he shot down four German planes and damaged three U-boats.
Standing in the harbor and looking at the horizon, many visitors to Gdynia are still unaware of a major maritime tragedy that occurred near the city in 1945. Wilhelm Gustloff was torpedoed by a Soviet submarine shortly after leaving Gdynia.
It sank with the loss of approximately 9,400 people, making it the deadliest shipwreck in recorded maritime history. Most of the dead were civilians, including over 4,000 children.
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Aquarium
If you’re keen to experience a lighter, more relaxed side of Gdynia, head to the aquarium. Its home to more than 1,000 species of fish, amphibians and reptiles from every corner of the world.
The building is spacious and very modern, located a stone’s throw away from the museum ships in the harbor. One of the best things about visiting Poland is how much money you can save. Everything is very cheap and in fact, Poland actually has the lowest food prices in Europe.
The great outdoors of Gdynia
If you want to explore the great outdoors, Gdynia is the perfect place. Miles of beautiful sandy beaches stretch in every direction, dotted with marinas, promenades and restaurants. Be sure to take a walk in Plaża w Orłowie, a fantastic stretch of white coastal sand located below the Orłowie cliffs.
There is an old wooden pier here, a good place to relax and take in the views. Small colorful fishing boats bob up and down in the tide while a huge brown tree trunk stands across the bay.
It contrasts beautifully with the cream colored cliffs in the background, a place of stunning beauty. Sitting on that tree trunk at sunset, you find yourself in the most radiant place in all of Poland.
Walk the hills and cliffs overlooking the beaches and enjoy fantastic views over the Baltic Sea. It is very tranquil along the paths that look at the roaring Baltic, and you can walk for hours on end. In the summer, it gets crowded and noisy, nowhere more so than the beaches themselves.
Poles flock to Sopot more than Gdynia, so if you’re looking for a more relaxing summer experience, find yourself a spot on the sand at Plaża w Orłowie or the wild beach at Osada Rybacka.
Cyganeria
In terms of buzz, vibrancy and life, Gdynia is hard to beat. Get away from the beaches and head back to town where you’ll find Cyganeria, an old and much-loved bar noir. Budding student revolutionaries used to stage coups in this bar, and its sofas provide the perfect place to relax with a cold beer or hot cappuccino, depending on the weather. If you’re hungry, go to Barracuda.
This modern and stylish place serves the best seafood in Poland and its terrace has an unbeatable atmosphere during the summer. Gdynia offers many exciting events, such as Heineken Open’er, an early summer music festival that attracts the best names in the industry and up to 70,000 fans.
For cinema lovers, the Gdynia Film Festival is the highlight of the year, culminating in the awarding of the Golden Lion trophy for the best film.
After a short visit, Gdynia is easy to gauge. Beneath the initially distant facade, you enter a city full of spectacular history, friendly people, buzzing events and inviting seaside promenades. Its deep sea port is literally the lifeblood of Poland and some have described Gdynia as the gateway to the country.
However Gdynia is not only the gateway to Poland, it is much more. It is a summer holiday resort, an important logistics base, a rapidly developing economic force. Gdynia is experiencing its best days right now, so go and enjoy all it has to offer!
Seamus Murphy writes for Trenditionist.